Long before faceted diamonds became the standard, Rajasthan's royal courts were already wearing stones that caught the light in their own way. Polki is that tradition — uncut, unfaceted natural diamonds set by hand into gold, exactly as jewellers here have done for generations. If you're planning a wedding and want jewellery that feels rooted in Jaipur rather than borrowed from a catalogue, Polki is where to start.
What exactly is Polki?
Polki refers to raw diamonds that are cut and polished into shape but never faceted, so they keep a soft, natural glow instead of the sharp sparkle of a modern-cut diamond. Each stone is set into 22K or 24K gold using a technique called Kundan, where fine gold foil is pressed around the stone to hold it in place without claws or prongs. The reverse side is usually finished with meenakari enamel work, so a Polki necklace often looks completely different — and just as beautiful — when flipped over.
Polki vs Kundan vs faceted diamonds
• Polki: the stone itself — an uncut, natural diamond
• Kundan: the setting technique used to hold a stone (Polki or otherwise) in gold foil
• Faceted diamonds: modern-cut stones designed for maximum brilliance under light — a different look entirely, more suited to solitaires and contemporary sets
In practice, most “Polki jewellery” you see is Polki stones set using the Kundan technique — which is why the two words are so often used together.
Why brides in Jaipur still choose it
Polki carries weight a new-cut diamond simply can't — it's the same craft that dressed Rajput queens, made by artisans whose families have worked gold and stone for generations right here in Jaipur. It pairs naturally with a red or maroon bridal lehenga, photographs beautifully under warm wedding lighting, and — because each piece is hand-set — no two sets are ever quite identical. For many families, a Polki set also becomes an heirloom passed down rather than a one-event purchase.
Styling your bridal Polki set
• A full Polki necklace calls for restraint elsewhere — pair with a simple maang tikka and studs rather than layering multiple statement pieces
• A Polki choker with a long haar (layered necklace) works well for a lehenga with a heavier neckline
• Add a Nath (nose ring) for the traditional Rajasthani bridal look, especially for the pheras
Caring for Polki jewellery
• Store pieces separately in a soft cloth pouch — Kundan settings can scratch against harder jewellery
• Keep away from perfume, hairspray, and sweat where possible — apply these before putting jewellery on, not after
• Have the setting checked by a professional jeweller once a year, since foil settings can loosen slightly over time
If you're getting married this season, our Bridal & Polki collection is worth seeing in person — the way these stones catch light doesn't fully come through in photographs. Book an appointment with us and we'll walk you through sets in person, no obligation to buy.